From a Corroboree to Australia’s Church

This walk is about Australians gathering in London – to celebrate, commemorate and remember – as well as to enjoy themselves.

A. Holborn Underground station

B. Connaught Rooms – Australia Day 1918

C. Aldwych Theatre – Australian YMCA social centre

D. Australia House

E. St Clement Danes

F. St Sepulchre Church

G. Newgate Prison

H. St Mary-le-Bow church

I. St Paul’s Underground station

Google Map showing key stops

Start - A

[As you emerge from the Underground at Holborn, turn left out of the station and walk along Kingsway in a southerly direction. Cross the road at the next pedestrian crossing and turn right into Great Queen Street. Stop opposite the Connaught Rooms at number 61-65]

Stop B

This is the site of a celebration held on January 26 1918 to mark Australia Day. January 26 marks the date on which the First Fleet arrived at Sydney Cove in 1788. Here is a poster advertising the event.

Source – Australian Unity Limited Archives, Melbourne

The Connaught Rooms continue to this day as a function space, hosting many prestigious events over the years. It was not until 1935 that all Australian states agreed on January 26 as marking Australia Day. So, it was in London, away from home, that Australians came together and identified as one. Read more – here

In 1916 the same event was called 'The First Annual Corroboree' – it was held at Caxton Hall. Read more – here

[Continue down Great Queen Street and turn left into Drury Lane. Follow Drury Lane until it meets The Aldwych]

Stop C

The Aldwych Theatre is on the corner on your right-hand side. The Aldwych Theatre served as the YMCA Social Centre for AIF soldiers for the latter part of the First World War. This provided the Australian soldiers with a well-equipped performance space and a central location for other theatres and eating places. It was described in the Australian press as an Australian home in an alien city.

This is what it looked like during that time.

Image - Australian War Memorial - public domain

Look across to the buildings on the other side of the Aldwych and imagine that none of these buildings were there during the First World War. Instead, this whole semi-circular plot of land was filled with YMCA huts. The main hut was called Eagle Hut and was occupied by American forces towards the end of the First World War. Read more –here

This picture gives an idea of what the area looked like then.

Photo - Giles Booth - Flickr

[Cross the Aldwych and make your way left - towards Bush House. On the way you will spot a small plaque outside India House. Unfortunately it’s mostly covered by a pot plant, but marks the spot where Eagle Hut stood]

The Eagle Hut plaque  - obscured by the pot plant

[Continue walking towards Bush House, around the Aldwych, and then turn right into Melbourne Place. As you walk along this short connecting street, to your right would have stood the Australian YMCA Hut although there’s no plaque to mark this spot. On your left is the rear of the imposing Australia House, the next stop on the walk. Turn left into the Strand and walk around to the front of the building]

Stop D

Welcome to Australia House. It’s possible to enter the building through this entrance, but security prevents further public access. Inside there are photos of the opening of the building on the wall and pictures of current Australian federal ministers and representatives in London. Photography is not permitted.

Australia House is the central administration presence in the city. It’s the oldest Australian diplomatic mission and the longest continuously occupied foreign mission in London. It’s literally a part of Australia, sitting in a prominent position in London, with the building using many materials shipped from Australia. 2018 marks its centenary. Read more – here

The grand entrance

[Cross the road and in front of you is St Clement Dane’s church]

Stop E

The church is open during the week. Do have a look inside – it’s been beautifully restored. The church has strong Australian connections – the church rector held an annual ANZAC Day (25th April – marking the Gallipoli landings in 1915) service at St Clements, from 1920 until the 1930’s and he was well-respected and well-known by Australians visiting the capital. Read more – here

[Exit the church and continue east (the direction heading away from the back of the church) along the Strand]

There are many places of interest between Stop E and the next Australian stop on the tour. You will pass:

- The Royal Courts of Justice

- The Temple Church

- The large Griffin in the middle of the road (marking where Wren's Temple Bar used to stand – the ceremonial entrance to the City of London from Westminster)

- The Law Courts

- The older buildings opposite the Law Courts, as you approach Ludgate Hill. These buildings escaped the Fire of London in 1666.

- Ye Old Cheshire Cheese pub on Fleet Street. An old traditional pub with small, dark winding corridors and stairs. It provides good food, tea and coffee and is a good place for a break, including toilets. Alternatively, stop at The Punch Tavern or The Tipperary.

Make a stop at St Dunstan-in-the-West church, 186a Fleet Street. Lord Northcliffe (whose statue is in the churchyard) supported Keith Murdoch (Australian journalist) in efforts to withdraw ANZAC troops from Gallipoli in 1915.

[Continue along the Strand as it becomes Fleet Street and then Ludgate Hill. Turn left into Limeburner Lane, then left again into the Old Bailey. When you reach Holborn Viaduct, St Sepulchre Church is across the road]

Stop F

Enter the church and locate the Musicians’ Chapel. Here you’ll find a stained-glass window dedicated to Dame Nellie Melba. Born Helen Porter Mitchell in May 1861, Nellie Melba was a renowned Australian operatic soprano. She was born in Melbourne but spent various periods of her life in London, Paris and New York. She adopted the pseudonym Melba after her home town of Melbourne. The stained-glass window is one of a number of London memorials to this famous singer. While you are in the church check out the Newgate Executioner’s bell which came from Newgate Prison, our next stop on the walk. Read more – here

Detail of the Melba window

[Exit the church and head down Newgate Street in the direction of St Pauls. Turn right into Warwick Lane]

Stop G

Just down on your right-hand side you can look through the gates outside Amen Court. Through the arch you can see remains of the wall of Newgate Prison. Newgate Prison was London’s most notorious prison and has strong Australian connections. Notable convicts were:

Mary Wade – transported for theft in 1789 on the Second Fleet – Youngest female transportee. Many descendants, including former PM, Kevin Rudd

Jorgen Jorgensen – transported for theft in 1825 – Adventurer, King of Iceland (1809), explorer, transported convict, Tasmanian constable

Read more – here

Glimpse of the remaining Newgate Prison wall from Warwick Lane

[Cross Warwick Lane and turn right into White Hart Street. Weave your way around to your right and you’ll see St Paul’s Cathedral ahead. Keeping the cathedral on your right, find your way to Cheapside and walk away from St Paul’s]

Stop H

On your right-hand side, you come to St Mary-le-Bow church, Australia’s official church in London. Inside you will find a bust to Arthur Phillip, commander of the First Fleet of 1788. As well as the bust of Phillip, you’ll find a flag of the Order of Australia and a plaque commemorating the 5488 aircrew of the RAAF who failed to return from operations over Europe between 1939-45. Read more – here

The bust of Arthur Phillips

[Exit the church and walk back in the direction of St Paul’s]

Stop I

Enter the One New Change development, on your left, and head to the roof terrace. This provides an excellent view of St Paul’s and a place to have some refreshments after your walk.

It’s a short walk to St Paul’s underground station from here.

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END OF WALK